January 13, 2010 at 9:59 pm
A little bit of knowledge can be a terrible dangerous thing
My sorely missed father used to have a saying about people who crapped on about a subject sounding as if they were an authority when all around them knew different. He would quietly say long after they had run out of steam that they “knew everything and knew nothing”.
Aingela Flannery of The Irish Independent appears to be one such person. She recently visited Kin Khao Thai in Athlone and recently published her findings. Let me preface the following by pointing out that I have always welcomed any sort of criticism or comment on Kin Khao Thai, our food, our service, or anything else that might be worth talking about.
But I digress. One of the problems I would foresee with a so-called “food critic” is that you would need to to have an encyclopedic knowledge of food in order to make statements about it. If you don’t possess that knowledge I would suggest you steer clear of the broad sweeping statements.
Anyway, Angela and her companion, The Cartoonist (where does she get the names?? I wonder where the Gentleman Caller is gone?? ) rocked up at the restaurant. She claims to be an old pro where Thai cuisine is concerned, the friend is a virgin. Her first totally misinformed statement concerns the “rambling menu”. Her friend is “visibly overwhelmed” by our menu!! Aingeala then pronounces that this is recurring problem with ethnic menus, she states that “they fear a short menu when a diminutive one will do”. Aingeala, you may not realise it but Thai cuisine is as rich and diverse as the people and the land itself. Thai cuisine is dictated by the region one cares to look at. For example Northern Thai cuisine is hot, aromatic, sexy and spicy like you’ve never had it before. Whereas if you jump down south you will experience the creamy curries of a land rich with coconut and heavily influenced by Muslim cuisine. Thai cuisine is abit of everything. Unlike French or Greek cuisine, Thai cuisine has taken bits of lots of other nations such as Indian, Laos, Burmese and melded it into what we now know as Thai. Believe it or not, the humble chilli was missing from Thai cuisine until just afew centuries ago.
It would be both impossible and sheer ignorance to edit and dumb down a Thai menu for the sake of misinformed and indecisive individuals who are afraid of trying something new.
The Kin Khao Thai menu is very unique in that it features many popular Thai dishes but it also features many unique, country style dishes not normally found outside of Thailand. We feature tham because that’s what we’re about. Trying new things, exploring our palettes and seeing what’s new and adorable out there. Isn’t that what food is all about. Perhaps Aingeala should have got her friend a sweet and sour from the local Chinese and a dvd from Xtravision.
So after the panic had settled Aingeala decides to “take control” and she orders the very popular Kin Khao Taster Plate. A great choice if I may be so bold. Unfortunately we made a mistake and brought the Mixed Combination to her table (another very popular dish). Now this is the thing. Aingeala and her peers in the foodie world are always thumping the alter about speaking out if something is wrong with your dining experience. Well here was Aingeala’s big moment…….what did she do?? She did what many other people would do…..she didn’t even squeak. Every restaurant makes mistakes, the true test of a good restaurant is how they rectify their mistake. Aingeala didn’t even give us that chance.
Now here is the main criticism of her article. It is what has my staff and chefs so vexed and it sadly shows Aingeala up for “knowing everything and knowing nothing”. After gulping down the starter with her friend who has clearly taken his chill pill and ably assisted Ms Flannery in scraping the plate clean, she then boldly states that “this isn’t what Thai people eat for their dinner”. My Head Chef read this article before me and when I came into the restaurant the other day I was wondering why he was under the weather. It was when he showed me the article that I realised. In his words “what is this crazy farang (western) woman?? She does not know us Thai people.” And that Aingeala is your problem. For the record the Kin Khao Combination Starter consists of Satay Chicken, Prawn Toast, Spring Rolls, Hoi Jo and Spare Ribs. In fairness I have to admit that one doesn’t come across spare ribs too often in Thailand, so a little bit of artistic licence there. Every other morsel on that starter plate that the two experts devoured is widely eaten across the country of Thailand. Aingeala, if you like you can tag along with Janya and I when we next go to Thailand. You might learn something.
Now just to show I am not totally bitter and twisted I do have to applaud Aingeala for her choice of Ho Mok Gai for her main course. It is my favourite dish and is the Kin Khao signature dish. But again Aingeala couldn’t help herself. In a catty sort of way she comments that the English translation for Ho Mok Gai is dull!!! Aingeala it is what it is. Steamed Chicken Curry. In fact our description of the dull chicken curry goes for SIX lines.
Now the second main course I have to put my hands up. It’s a dish that doesn’t appeal to everyone. Basically it’s diced fillet of beef stir fried with vegetables and peanut sauce. No pak choi Ang, that’s Chinese leaf, and the bland tasting peanut sauce was exactly the same peanut sauce you got for your combination which you approved of. The thing about Thai food is that there are dishes that do not appeal to all. That’s the beauty of our large and varied menu.
Taste is a very personal thing and hey, if you’re not into sweet desserts there really is nothing I can do regarding our banana fritters but again Aingeala displays her ignorance. Sticky rice is an ancient dessert dating back to the 13th century it was served to special guests at wedding banquets and other special events. It is supposed to be “flummery”, it is a sweet dish because of the range of spices and other tastes that a guest has just experienced. In fact Aingeala, it is the most popular dish on our menu. It is consumed by young, old and misfortunate. At this stage of the night I would hazard to guess that this is just another attempt at Aingeala attempting to display her vast knowledge of all things Asian.
Indifferent service? I apologise. We pride ourselves on our service even when we are under pressure. There is never any excuse for poor service. Prices?? Excluding beers two starters, two mains, with rice and two desserts at 35 Euros. Pretty reasonable I think. Aingeala will probably come back to me saying that other “Asian” or “Ethnic” restaurants come in alot cheaper. Having surveyed a handful recently I don’t agree.
And finally, who does Aingeala Flannery think she is dictating to the country how Kin Khao Thai should run its business. Edited menu, decreased prices, deep fried food??? Aingeala as I mentioned at the start of this tome. I welcome feedback from all and sundry, but not from one who is clearly as ignorant of Thai cuisine and the ways in which it should be eaten. I would suggest you spend alittle more time appreciating the finer points of ethnic cuisine before attempting to run with the big boys of the foodie world. Our own Tom D or Paolo T certainly don’t claim to know it all. The difference being that they admit this in their writings and are open to new sensations in that quest. You plainly are not. Perhaps you should stick to chicken balls and chips. It won’t be as daunting.
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